Wednesday, March 12, 2008

The Way the Sun Hits off the Runway

Lately there's been a lot of illness going around the English department at my school, while this is bad news for them, it's good news for me, because I've been getting a lot of half days, where I'm done with my obligations well before noon. On Tuesday, I would be done by 10:30, and I said to myself, "Self, today is a day, I think, for indulging secret and/or guilty pleasures." I was struck by the conviction and force of my words, and could do naught but agree. Thus resolved, I set about filing through my guilty pleasures. Now, my go-to guilty pleasure is fast food. If I'm feeling particularly saucy, I'll waltz into McDonald's and tuck into a Big Mac and some McNuggets or (in countries where the option exists) knock down a Wendy's triple cheeseburger. It is my soul vice, and definitely one of the things I don't like to tell people about (but it's ok now, cause this is a blog, not real life or anything). I ruled that out though, mostly because I wasn't sure how I was gonna make that last all day. Digging a little deeper I hit upon a pleasure so guilty and secret that I hadn't indulged it in nearly 10 years. Yes, friends, it shames your 'umble narrator to admit that he has a passion for military aviation. In fact, there was a time when the US Air Force Museum just up the Interstate in Dayton was something of a Mecca for me.

----------Public Service Announcement-------------
Before you make any road trip plans, I have it on good authority, that, being as there are no other sights in Dayton, people who are actually from Dayton grow up to hate the Air Force Museum since every time anyone comes in from out of town, the only way to entertain them is to take them to the museum. Kids these days have it so easy though, because now, if you're bored with the Air Force Museum, you can drive a few miles South down I-75 to beautiful, sunny Monroe, Ohio and show all your friends and relatives (and really anyone you can lure into your car) Attack of the 62 Foot Jesus!!!
"But wait!" you exclaim! What if I need a six-foot metal spring or a refrigerator motor or some irregular clothing?" Well, then, you get your ass over to Mendelson's Liquidation Outlet, you do! Good authority also tells me, though, that attempting to bounce the metal spring will result in a cacophonous, metallic clang and stares from other shoppers. Just a word to the wise.
----------End Public Service Announcement---------

There is just something ineffably... cool about the whole affair. The problem with it all is, of course, that there's not really anything cool about killing people. I rationalize my admiration to myself, though, primarily by re-contextualizing these aircraft. When I think about, say, a MiG-29, I'm not really impressed by the fact that it could drop nearly 8,000 pounds of ordinance on my head (though I am decidedly terrified by it). Rather, I am awed by the ability of 37,000 pounds of metal to travel at 2.5 times the speed of sound and climb 65,000 feet in the course of a minute. Any way you slice it, that's flat impressive. It is still a readily admitted shame that the only reason mankind can justify this kind of envelope-pushing is for the sake of exploding each other better and faster. But trying to focus on aesthetics, I set off for the Germany's own little slice of Dayton — the Luftwaffenmuseum — as soon as my class let out.
Now getting to the museum was an adventure in itself. According to Berlin's mass-transit travel planner, the trip involved three buses. The first leg was fairly standard: take my ol' friend the 643 up to Potsdam — easy enough. The next bus would take me half an hour away, where, according to the trip planner, I was to wait 20 minutes for another bus that would take me all of three minutes to the museum stop. I assumed I could skip this last bit, and just walk in the time it would take me to wait for this silly, little three minute bus. Imagine my surprise, friends and neighbors, when this second bus dropped me off right smack-dab in the middle of nowhere. I am talkin' it was me and a highway and some trees. So what to do for 20 minutes? Sit there and twiddle my thumbs, natch, and figure out where the heck this friggin' airport is (seriously, if it's only three minutes away, shouldn't I be able to see at least a control tower?). I soon found out, when the fabled, third bus dropped me off at the prescribed stop. So where was this museum? Well according to the ubiquitous blue landmark signs that dot Berlin, it's 1,150 meters that-a-way. Down that quiet looking suburban street you mean? Yes, indeed I do. ::Sigh:: off I trudged, none too happy at the prospect of a three-quarter mile walk after that hour and a quarter commute. The walk turned out to be pretty interesting though. Like I said, it took me through a quaint little subdivision where, it turned out, all the streets had an aviation theme. They started out normal enough as I passed Gebrüder-Wright-Straße, Charles-Lindbergh-Straße and Amelia-Earheart-Straße with a few German pilots mixed in for good measure, but as I neared the museum, I couldn't help feel they were reaching a little bit with names like DaVinci-Straße and Jules-Verne Straße, and even
Ikarus-Pfad. When I finally actually made it to the entrance of the museum, I was greeted by... a fence. I tried the handle, but no dice. I was standing there considering which German swear words to shout should the place, for some reason, be closed, when a door on the other side of the fence swung open to reveal a short, bald fellow, of whom I inquired with my eyes, just what the hell the deal was. He pointed to his right, and I followed the fence to the side of the building where, expecting to see a sign about the very obvious reason the museum was closed for the day, it took me several seconds to realize I was staring at the entrance. A revelatory "ach so!" cleared things up for both of us, and, once I was inside, he gave me the rundown in the sort of German you use with the severely mentally challenged (can't say I blame him). Once inside, I whipped out the camera, and, as usual, I'll let pictures do the talking from here on, so just surf on over here, and I'll pick back up when you're finished.......

Alright so, what'd you think? There are plenty more pictures hiding on my hard drive, but I decided you probably have better things to do than look at another F-104 from 30 different angles (if you don't, let me know, and I'll be more than happy to share... also can I have your number?). Anyway, I think my favorite thing about the collection was the East German planes. A lot of people complain because of the awful shape the planes displayed outside are in, but to me, the especially dilapidated shape of East German planes (in comparison to the West German ones) lent them a certain authenticity, or immediacy. You could just imagine them mouldering in a forgotten hangar somewhere until the fall of Communism, when the West came in and took stock of everything, like going through a deceased relative's closet (a rather apt simile for the whole re-unification process, come to think of it). Of course, the museum honchos don't actually have such lofty æsthetic concepts in mind — they're just strapped for cash. All the same, I found it poignant in its way.
After making my way across the sprawling base — which is still partially used by the Luftwaffe, as intermittent, scary, fenced-off buildings with signs warning that trespassers will leave with more holes than they came with (in less uncertain terms, of course) reminded me — it was time to head back to my more accustomed Berlin outskirt. Having vowed not to put up with that ridiculous bus parade anymore, I rode the bus in the other direction in order to take the ferry across Havel Lake and catch the train at Wannsee. So that's what I did, and, really, the whole reason I'm telling you this is because when the ferry pulled up and docked, the most grizzled, weather-worn old salt stepped off, with a beard you could nest birds in — in a word: rugged. Then, as I and the dozen or so other passengers assembled on the dock boarded the ferry, the guy in front of me asked ol' Charon a question which I didn't hear, but Old Man River flipped shit. He went off on all kinds of stuff from the buses in Potsdam to contractual obligations. I decided I'd better not stick around to see if he was coming to a point, and prudentially slank aboard. Watching through the window — err, porthole — I saw him eventually subdue and lean on the railing to churlishly smoke his cigarillo for the 15 minutes or so from arrival to departure. The ride itself passed without incident, and I arrived in Wannsee in time to grab a döner before the train, which took me back to Michendorf, where it was snowing flakes the size of quarters (none of which accumulated).

Friday, March 07, 2008

The cradle of German (insert highly regarded Western value)

Last week I took up the invitation, extended to me when I first showed up at Wolkenberg Gymnasium way back in September, to accompany one of the 10th grade classes on their class trip to Weimar.

------------HISTORICAL INTERLUDE------------------------
Weimar first made a name for itself in the late 18th century as the home of the two greats of German literature, Friedrich Schiller and
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe who moved there in 1787 and 1788 and remained there until their respective deaths in 1805 and 1832. Weimar is also known as the place where Germany's post-World War I, democratic constitution was drafted, leading historians to dub the state, which existed from 1919 until the National Socialists took power in 1933, the Weimar Republic. 1919 was a productive year for Weimar. In addition to the first post-imperial German state, the Bauhaus design school (to which anyone who's ever been to IKEA owes a significant debt) was founded by Walter Gropius. After World War II, Weimar ended up in the Soviet Occupation Zone, and consequently became part of East Germany, providing a counterpoint — in the form of nasty Communist architecture — to the Modernist traditions of the Bauhaus.
------------END HISTORICAL INTERLUDE--------------------

So Day 1: Tuesday, February 26. Hush that Fuss
Show up at school at 9:45 to catch the bus. Am greeted by several semi-interested "hi"s from the kids, who quickly re-busy themselves with whatever they were doing before I got there. Not til Cordula — the Responsible Adult/ faculty member for the whole affair — shows up, do I get a little conversation. She notes that I'm looking a little pale and proceeds to give my cheeks a couple smacks to liven me up. Things are certainly going well! Also along for the ride, are a parental chaperone and one of the teacher trainees who's been helping Cordula with this class. I should mention that the pretense for this whole trip is to give these 10th graders some context for the things they're studying in their German class. Anyway, here's the bus, and a big fuss is made to ensure that I get to sit where I want. I tell them, in a joking tone that, apparently, doesn't translate (note to self), that I want to sit in the tour guide seat next to the bus driver. It is roundly insisted that I do this. That was, I have to say, pretty cool. You get a good view of the road, and the dash board (I have a secret thing control panels, dashboards, cockpits etc., and I always thrill a bit when I get a close up look at some new variant, particularly one with lots of switches and buttons). So it was time to sit back and enjoy the ride. And I sat back a little too much, I guess, cause I fell asleep pretty well straight away, and woke up in front of our hostel to some good natured ribbing about having a nice nap (thank god I didn't drool!).
Wandering the Streets
We got our stuff squared away (I got a "cozy" single which was just big enough for a bed, a closet, a sink and some much appreciated privacy), and headed into town. This being a class trip, we were expected to learn something (lame!). To that end, the kids were split up into groups with different "tours" of the city to accomplish. To my pleasant surprise, one of the students, Sven, overheard Cordula telling me I could pick one of the groups to go with if I wanted and excitedly invited me to come with his group. To make sure they didn't just skip the tour and goof off, the kids had a couple questions to answer about sights around the city. Our first one was: "what is over the door to Schiller's house?" After some initial confusion about where exactly Schiller's house even was, we were dismayed to discover that whatever it was over Schiller's door had been taken down for restoration. We needed an answer, though, and I suggested the sign on the side of the door: "Closed Tuesdays". At this point, I'm starting to overlap into the part where I took pictures, so I'll let my Picasa album take over from here. Please follow the link and I'll see you in a bit...

Day 2, February 27th
Everyone's Gone to the Movies
Welcome back! One quick gap I'd like to fill in: day 2 started with a trip to the Weimar Museum, which is an animatronic spectacle narrated by Goethe himself! It takes you through a series of rooms, each depicting a scene from Weimar's past from the ancient settlers, who gave the place its name (Weimar, literally: "holy swamp") right up to the founding of the Weimar Theater by Goethe and Schiller (our narrator gets a little subjective here, needless to say...). Now, a jump to Goethe's garden house, which the teachers thought would be an appropriate setting for the kids to recite the Goethe poems they memorized. Good jobs all around, and I even stumbled through a cold reading of "Prometheus" to polite applause. After that, the boys wanted to show me the awesome playground they had found the day before while I was out on my Ringo-walk in the park.
After the playground, we had some time to kill before dinner, and as I had been itching to check out the Bauhaus Museum since we arrived (no pictures allowed inside — weak!), I announced my intention to do just that, and Sven (the one from before) even wanted to come with me! The place wasn't nearly as big as the Bauhaus Archive here in Berlin, but it was still most awesome. Sven didn't hang around as long as I did, he took off to take some pictures of that big, wooden chair which I'd pointed out to him on the way back from the playground. That night, the plan had been to go to the National Theater (where the Weimar Republic constitution was drafted) for a production of Faust, but it turns out they could only wrangle enough tickets for half the class, so — generous soul that I am — I offered to take the other half to the movies. But what to see? The general consensus was Keinohrhasen, a romantic comedy which I had already seen and taken ill-advised relationship cues from, but a dozen German teenagers can't be wrong, so off we went to the local mutiplex. After the film, which was still good the second time around, we went to Burger King where, for some reason (maybe to complete the whole "American fast-food" experience), you can pay in dollars. When the kids found out I actually did have dollars on me (the $11.00 I've been carrying around since Christmas), they all wanted me to pay with them, but with the Burger King exchange rate being $1.70 to the euro, there was no way in hell. So that was that, we all went back to the hostel, fell asleep and didn't get up until the next morning when we caught the bus back to Michendorf. I sat in a regular seat this time, and only fell asleep once for about half an hour. And that was that. It's a fun city, very small and accessible. I was told Weimar was a definite must by everyone who found out I was going there, and for anyone with even a passing interest in German history or culture this is certainly true. Til next time, tourism fans...